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Frommer's Guide
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FEATURES AND EVENTS
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Tahoe in the Snow: Enjoying Winter Fun By the Lake
by Jeremy Chipman
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Locale: Lake Tahoe, CA/NV
Nearest Airport:
Reno/Tahoe International Airport (RNO)
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| The two major access roads to Lake Tahoe are Interstates 80 and 50. In light traffic, Truckee is about 90 minutes drive from Sacramento and three hours from San Francisco on I-80. South Lake Tahoe is approximately two hours drive from Sacramento on I-50, and about 90 minutes from Reno/Tahoe International Airport.
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Utah may have better powder. Colorado may have a better scene. And Vermont may have more tradition. But as all-around winter destinations go, few places in the United States rival Lake Tahoe, with its variety of resorts, opportunities for off-mountain fun, and sheer natural beauty. With 14 different ski areas dotting the landscape--from colossal Squaw Valley, site of the 1960 Winter Olympics, to tiny Soda Springs, with a total of two (yes, two) chairlifts--skiers and snowboarders vacationing here can easily try a different mountain each day. And with all its restaurants, nightclubs, and casinos, plus the fact that Reno is just a short drive away, it's easy to keep yourself occupied after dark, as well. Here's a brief tour of Tahoe's winter attractions, from the slopes to the slots.
 Any serious skier or snowboarder should begin on the North Shore at Squaw Valley USA, far and away the biggest resort in Northern California. (Its base lodge/shopping/parking lot area is larger than some other mountains.) Six peaks--covering 4,000 acres of terrain--are serviced by 30 lifts, one gondola, and one tram, keeping lift lines tolerable and making it relatively easy to escape the madding crowds. Its cornices are heaven for experts, its wide bowls a dream for beginners. There's even a swimming pool and spa at the mid-mountain lodge (8,200 feet above sea level) that gives non-skiers something to do during the day. Not too far away from Squaw is Alpine Meadows, smaller than its neighbor but preferred by many frequent visitors to Tahoe for its more relaxed, family atmosphere. Snowboarders, who were just allowed onto these slopes a few years ago, are now a dominating presence. Further to the north and east lies Northstar-at-Tahoe, a family-oriented resort with an active and popular learn-to-ski program, as well as miles of cross-country skiing.
 The jewel of the South Shore resorts is Heavenly. The only ski area in the country spread across two states (California and Nevada), it lives up to its name with truly blessed lake views from the summit, and a five-mile-long, top-to-bottom run. It's also just minutes away from the lively commercial strip of South Lake Tahoe. Day-trippers from Sacramento swear that while Sierra-at-Tahoe may not be as spectacularly located as Heavenly, it more than makes up for it with three expansive mountain faces and plenty of great tree skiing. Finally, away from the crowds by the lake, Kirkwood has gained a well-earned reputation for consistently terrific conditions, and it regularly claims to have the deepest snow base of any North American resort.
As if the plethora of mountains to choose from wasn't enough, Lake Tahoe has plenty to keep skiers and snowboarders occupied once the lifts have closed and the sun has set. South Lake Tahoe is the best place to go for food, ranging from inexpensive dives and fast-food chains to some decent ethnic restaurants. South Lake, as it's nicknamed, runs right into the town of Stateline, Nevada, where gambling addicts can get their fill of those all-you-can-eat buffets, not to mention slots machines, gaming tables, and some big-name live entertainment at resorts like Harrah's and Casear's. Smaller but equally lively are Tahoe's North Shore villages of Tahoe City (where a lot of the apres-ski crowd from Squaw and Alpine Meadows hang out) and Kings Beach. There's also charming Truckee, an authentic Old West town that lies just off of I-80. And for those itching for a relatively urban experience (albeit in the form of large casinos and the National Bowling Stadium), Reno--also known as the Biggest Little City in the World--is just a half-hour's drive from Truckee.
 Of course, the real highlight of any winter vacation here is the sight of majestic Lake Tahoe itself, shimmering in the sun, enveloped by the snow-capped Sierra Nevada range. Whether you take in the view from high above, while barreling through fresh powder, or simply stroll along one of the walking trails that run around it, you're certain to appreciate this special place. You might end up wondering why anyone would go skiing or snowboarding anywhere else.•
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Inside Scoop |
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A Lake Tahoe vacation can be as luxurious or low budget as you make it. Most of the major resorts have on-site lodging, usually offering both hotels and trailside condos. Tahoe City, Kings Beach, and Truckee all have roadside motels that are reasonably priced, although they are limited in number; on most winter weekends, the "no vacancy" signs go up quickly. A better bet for accommodations is in South Lake Tahoe, where there are so many inexpensive motel rooms along Highways 89 and 50 that visitors are rarely left out in the cold, no matter how crowded it gets. In addition, many motels offer special ski-and-stay packages and/or sell discounts to certain area resorts. South Lake Tahoe is also a good place to rent skis and snowboards if you show up empty-handed.
Keep in mind that access to Lake Tahoe is often affected by weather conditions. In severe storms, the road between Tahoe City and South Lake Tahoe on Highway 89 is often closed at Emerald Bay--sometimes for days or even weeks afterwards. Other mountain roads will have "holds" placed on them, stopping traffic in one or both directions. Most importantly, Friday night and Sunday afternoon traffic can be a nightmare. No matter what, give yourself extra travel time, be patient, and flexible with your plans.
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